Top 4 Ways You’re Wasting Gas When You Think You’re Saving It

With the price of gasoline up over 40% since the beginning of the year, many people are trying to find new ways to save money at the pump.

While many of these ideas are useful and worth the extra effort – i.e. adjusting your commuting time, cleaning out your car’s trunk, turning off your car at long stop lights – many driving habits that people think will help them save gas or money are actually causing them to waste both.

fuel economy gauges, scangauge fuel economy gauge, digital fuel economy gauges

If you really want to monitor your fuel economy, buy a ScanGauge digital fuel economy gauge.

So on that note, here are the top four ways people think they’re saving money and/or gas when they’re actually not:

  1. Driving across town to save a nickel on a gallon of gas. With gas prices at record highs, many people are doing everything they can to reduce the amount of money they spend at the pump. One of the more popular ways people are doing this is by using sites like Gasbuddy.com to find the cheapest gas stations in their zip code. Unfortunately, many of these same people are driving long distances to save a couple of pennies on a gallon of gas – meaning they’re probably burning up the amount of money they save by using extra gas to go to an out of the way station.
  2. Driving on the highway with their windows down to avoid using the air conditioner. We’ve become accustomed to thinking that our car’s AC is the biggest drain on our car’s gas mileage. While using it will reduce your gas mileage, there are many instances where using your AC instead of rolling down the windows will actually be better for your car’s gas mileage. One of the biggest drains on your car’s gas mileage is aerodynamic drag – something that is exacerbated by rolling down the windows. If you’re going to drive on the highway, go ahead and turn on your AC and keep the windows up!
  3. Driving with their truck’s tailgate down. Many people believe that driving with their truck’s tailgate down will improve gas mileage. Unfortunately, the opposite is actually true. When a truck’s tailgate is up, a “protective air bubble” will form in the bed area which actually makes the truck a little more aerodynamic; when the tailgate is down, this bubble disappears and gas mileage gets worse.
  4. Accelerating extremely slowly. Many people think that the slower they accelerate, the better gas mileage they’re going to get. Unfortunately, extremely slow acceleration can bog down your engine and make it run less efficiently – thus wasting fuel. So, instead of slamming the accelerator to the floor or barely even touching it, try and find a nice happy medium so you can achieve a moderate acceleration.

So, if you’ve been doing the aforementioned items, I certainly can’t fault you for trying to save gas and money, however, there’s a reason why you haven’t seen much of a savings – these ideas just don’t work.

Comments

  1. EBounding says:

    I have a 2007 Civic EX. Setting the cruise to 60 MPH with the windows down a quarter of the way gets me around 48MPG (rated at 40). Cruising at 70, I get between 35-40MPG. 70+MPH I get 30MPG. I’ll have to try with the A/C on low.

    Oh, and 48MPG sounds good, but I only get 24MPG in heavy traffic. So it all boils down to how, when and where you drive.

  2. Andrew Norris says:

    These are all just ideas, never actually investigated or facts as claimed.

    I think this was written up in 10 minutes (or less).

    I know for a fact going light on the accelerator saves A LOT of fuel.

  3. “the most fuel efficient speed is with 45 of those little mph thingys.”

    I have tested this in my car, and I get the best efficiency (at reasonable speeds, I’m not going to do 15 Mph on a highway) at 85Mph in 6th. I get about a 4 Mpg boost!

  4. Andrew Norris says:

    The gasbuddy one – maybe – we all know about it. And we all know some people can be that stupid – but how many actually are? It’s unknown basically until a test is done.

  5. Andrew – go back and re-read the article. Yes, taking it light on the accelerator does save a lot of fuel, but taking it so easy that you bog down the engine also wastes fuel.

    • What does “So easy that you bog down your engine” even mean? In a vehicle with an automatic transmission, this is not possible. The more gently you accelerate, the less load your engine has on it, the less power you make, and the less gas you burn. If your engine gets “bogged down” it will down shift automatically.

      Are you referring to short shifting? By shifting early in a manual car, you can bog down the engine by shifting early into a higher gear. This is not particularly good for you engine, and you’re right its less efficient in terms of “Gas In vs Power Out”. However, until you’re at an excessively low RPM, your vehicle uses so much less gas in the next gear up, that the efficiency difference, especially in modern day engines, is trivial.

      Keep in mind, you’re engine is most efficient at its peak torque, this speed carries from engine to engine, but I guarantee that if your engine operated at that RPM regularly, you’re burning several times as much gas as you need to.

      Also, in regard to windows up/down on the highway: It completely depends on the car. Some vehicles will have their aerodynamics ruined by having their windows down, some will not. Likewise, some vehicles are very aerodynamics to start with, and a little more from the windows wont be noticeable. Likewise, setting the AC to 60 in 100 degree heat uses much more fuel than setting it to 70 in 80 degree heat. It all depends.

  6. Craig Mack says:

    Mythbusters has disproved both the A/C vs windows myth as well as the truck tailgate myth. Both are untrue. To really save gas, tell these single women to stop driving their obnoxious children around in a Ford Expedition!

  7. Chris Bergeron says:

    John – rubens hakkamacher is correct.

    As a vehicle coasts (and doesn’t burn fuel as you said, which is also wrong), it creates unnecessary drag on the car via the drivetrain. If what you’re saying about EFI cars not burning gas while the car runs at 3000 RPMs is true, then the momentum of the car is being decreased by having to turn over the engine.

    I have both an EFI car, and a naturally aspirated one; the naturally aspirated car goes MUCH FARTHER when coasting. The EFI car can’t coast nearly as far, and actually LOSES SPEED EVEN DOWNHILLS.

    That loss of momentum results in much higher fuel consumption, because the engine will have to work harder (at higher RPMs I might add) to get the car back to the speed it was cruising at.

    Therefore, lower RPMs save fuel.

  8. country mouse says:

    the energy cost of air conditioning is worth it for one very simple reason.

    Safety.

    if you are cool and comfortable you’re able to think much more clearly and react to road conditions than you would if you had a loud roar of hot air blowing over you. I don’t know about you but I would prefer to avoid any potential accidents or unpleasant events (i.e. road rage) and therefore I’ll use air-conditioning regardless of the energy costs.

    A secondary reason is noise. if you have passengers in the car or like to play your radio, loud air movement (anything over 25 miles an hour) means you have to scream at your passenger in order to be heard. Under the same conditions, your radio is playing much louder than normal which further obscures your ability to hear any acoustic warnings such as emergency vehicles until they are right on top of you.

    Play it safe. Use air-conditioning and drive sanely

  9. butcher99 says:

    In tests just done at a university (forget which one) they found that neither the AC nor windows down cause any more or less fuel useage.

  10. @Brains

    Apparently, you have none.

  11. OK….here’s the deal with the engine RPM/fuel injection story. You can calculate gas mileage very simply if you have a few known constants. One is the flow rate of a single fuel injector. The second is the number of fuel injectors (usually one per cylinder but larger engines may have two). Fuel injectors do not vary how fast fuel flows out of them. That is determined by your fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, and flow rate of the injector, which remains constant. What they do vary is how long they are spraying fuel into a cylinder during the intake stroke (pulse width modulation) and how often they have to do it (frequency/RPM). The longer the pulse and the more often the pulse occurs, the more fuel that is used. A single cylinder four stroke engine will inject fuel once per two revolutions. A four cylinder engine will inject fuel four times per two revolutions, and so on. It appears that the higher the revolutions, the more fuel that is used. This is true if the injector open duration is long. Under load or acceleration this is likely to be the case. However, under normal operation the injection period is likely to be shorter due to the higher frequency of injections (less time to spray in fuel when the valves are closing faster). To calculate gas mileage then you simply need to know how fast you are going and how much gas you are using per second (and of course do some conversions and math). When you take your foot off of the gas and the engine is coasting with the speed of the car, it is not using any gas! The fuel injectors shut off the whole time the car is pushing the engine. If you drive a manual transmission you may be tempted to release the engine from the transmission to bring down the revs. DO NOT DO THIS! What you are doing when you coast in neutral is making the engine idle which burns gas to keep it running. Carburetors never shut off the gas which is why you may get back-firing when you let off the gas and the carb isn’t tuned. It is true that you want to drive at the RPM where your engine is most efficient. This is where the engine makes the most power with the least amount of gas but is determined by many outside factors like loading, temperature, gas quality, atmospheric pressure, etc.. Higher speeds = more loading. There is no cookie cutter speed for every single vehicle to adhere to to obtain maximum efficiency. Finding that speed without a real-time miles per gallon calculator is not trivial. Throw in some extra cargo and people and you’ve just changed everything. I for one, am for car manufacturers being required to install real-time MPG calculators on every vehicle. It only makes sense in today’s energy climate to know how one’s driving affects the resources being used.

    • You are mostly correct, with a few caveats.

      Most cars with manual transmissions shut off the injectors when your foot is off the gas, and the car is in gear. Most of these vehicles however, require a certain engine speed to shut off the fuel. For example, my nissan requires the engine to be spinning at more than 2400rpm. My brothers dodge requires around 1800rpm. Below those points, the engine is burning more gas than it would if you simple took it out of gear. You could say “put the car in a lower gear to increase engine RPM” but then you’ll have a much stronger engine braking effect, which may not be desirable.

      Also, this generally doesn’t apply to vehicles with automatic transmissions. You can save large amounts of gas by shifting to neutral in certain circumstances, but this often raises safety concerns, as well as concerns on transmission wear and tear. Likewise, shifting to neutral at stop lights will save marginal amounts of gas (in my van’s case about 35%, but keep in mind that since the amount of fuel required to idle is small, any fraction of fuel saved will be small)

      Also important to note, by taking the car out of gear, you can pick up speed downhill, and coast for much longer distances. In many situations, this more than offsets the small amount of gas required to idle.

  12. JON RUSEL says:

    here’s an example of the backward force of the air (in pounds) against a corvette at various speeds.
    You can easily see that

    (mph) 15 30 60 90 120 150
    Force 3.60 14.5 58.0 130 232 368

    THEREFORE: Always drive DOWNWIND and you will get much better mileage. Do the math.

  13. 427Galaxie says:

    Josh–

    While most of the information you have posted is correct, EFI engines do not completely shut off fuel when the throttle is closed (foot off the gas). The IAC (idle air control) valve, or sometimes it’s called the IAB (idle air bypass) allows a small amount of air to enter the engine when the throttle is closed. Fuel is also injected to match this small amount of air, which will produce a small amount of power, but it performs an important function: combusting residual lubricant and atmospheric vapors which would otherwise contaminate the combustion chamber and create high emissions and possibly misfires. These vapors would eventually damage the catalyst if they were not burned.

    Typically, mixtures in high manifold vacuum conditions (low or negative engine load) are configured to be very lean, but I have yet to see an injector pulse map configured for zero pulse width.

    A common trick for modern automatic transmission vehicles to conserve energy while coasting is to disengage the lockup torque converter, similar to (but not the same as) pushing in the clutch or shifting to neutral in a manual transmission car. In any situation, the idle circuit in an EFI equipped vehicle should produce the lowest fuel consumption; if you are traveling at any speed while idling, you should be getting the best mileage possible from your vehicle.

    As JWC said, probably the best inexpensive indicator you can get to measure fuel economy is a vacuum gauge. Hook it up to manifold vacuum, and modulate your throttle to maintain the highest possible value as you travel.

  14. 427Galaxie:

    I’m no car expert. I just like to work on cars. I’ve used a computer program (VAG-COM) to monitor my 01 volkswagen jetta, and when I’m not on the gas the injector duration is zero milliseconds. I thank you for your information because it makes sense and will probably be useful to me in the future. I’m planning on programming a microcontroller to monitor my vehicle MPG real-time after I gather more information. I just wish automakers did this for us.

  15. First of all Gas quality is important than Engine load, Speed, RPM. these things will dictate your MPG. Things like AC, Wind resistance, Up-hill road will dictate your engine load. there is a sweet spot for every gear, try following 18wheeler less wind resistance = better MPG finally buy a device that can help you monitor your engine better I use Scan Gauge II

  16. Thanks falk (#31). I knew there was someone out there that didn’t get a C in HS Physics like I did that could back me up with the formula. So when you double your speed, you get 8 times the wind resistance. Luckily the wind resistance starts at zero, and doesn’t go up very much at first. So as an example, when V goes from 1 to 2 to 4, the cube goes from 1 to 8 to 64.

  17. Billy Bob says:

    Great to see you guys are all knowledgable in theoretical nonsense. Go back to making your tacos.

  18. Turning off your vehicle at a long stop light is a terrible idea. Starting a vehicle uses more gas then letting it run for 15 minutes on idle, deisel engines are even worse starting up.

  19. 427Galaxie says:

    Josh–

    Perhaps VW has a system that I know nothing about to reduce or eliminate the problem of lubricant contamination, it wouldn’t be the first time I’ve learned something new. Do you know if you are measuring actual injector pulse width, or just looking at the map coordinates? Some maps will have a base fuel used for idle and start, adjusted by the O2 sensor, with the rest of the map referenced from the idle (as zero).

  20. I don’t think it uses idle as a zero reference. When I am idling, I do see the pulse measurement being above zero. I also was thinking about your post about just watching manifold vacuum and I when I got into my Jetta at lunch I started wondering about how that works if the engine is turbo charged like mine. I’m getting ready to install a boost gauge so if I want good mileage should I want to avoid boost (+) pressure or try to maintain (-) or zero?

  21. Cory – That’s completely incorrect; there’s no way in hell that starting your car wastes the same amount of gas as sitting in idle for 15 minutes.

  22. 427Galaxie says:

    Even with a turbo, maximum fuel economy should occur at or near peak manifold vacuum, so avoid boost if you’re looking for highest economy. Boosting is like raising atmospheric pressure… the greater the delta pressure upstream of the intake valve and cylinder pressure, the more filling will occur. The more filling that occurs, the more fuel you will need to keep stoichometric in the combustion space.

    Another trick that can be used (and is) to reduce fuel consumption at steady cruise or low throttle angle is to inject an inert or oxygen poor gas into the intake. This displaces available reactive oxygen in the cylinder and reduces the amount of fuel required to maintain stoich, assuming sufficient power is available to maintain cruise. There is a convenient supply available on most modern cars: exhaust. Known as, and often hated on carbureted cars, exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) supplies an amount of exhaust gas into the intake stream. It works fine on closed loop EFI cars, but without good feedback, it’s often a pain to tune and adjust. As a supply of an inert, relatively dry, warm gas, EGR does a couple of good things besides reducing fuel consumption: warming the air/fuel mixture to improve combustion and reduce HC emissions, and reducing combustion temperatures to improve NOx emissions. I have heard of experiments using water steam as a form of EGR, but this requires additional equipment, as well as the possible risk of contaminating the crankcase.

  23. Blah, okay honestly… Im an amature on the road… About a year of driving…. Im 17, and own a 2002 chevy Silverado 2500 HD Crew Cab.. Yea it drinks gas, like a middle 40′s guy who lives in the country.

    Yes, its mine….

    Anyway.. Gas prices where I live are around 3.25 a gallon.

    Here is my stance on this whole gas thing:

    The price of gas, or any product sold to the consumer, is based indirectly by the consumer.

    In other words, the price of gas is based on YOU! (somewhat…) I take economics, marketing, im in DECA and stuff. so i have to go through business world.

    So here you have two options…
    Option A!
    You learn to accept it. Pay the prices, and eventually wait it out, and hope it gets better.
    Option B!
    Be frugal about your gas prices. You cant really boycott gas.. As we all need it.. I need gas to get from school to work to home… But be stingy about it. This in effect lowers the gas prices indirectly, and slowly.

    My personal option you may ask? Option A.
    Here is why.
    Face it, there is no point in trying to boycott gas. It er.. It just isn’t going to work.
    Even though the gas prices are determend by you the consumer, there isnt really a way your going to be able to change the price of gas because too many people need it. Its way easier for gas to go up than down. I i see a million people buying my gas, then I raise the price. but if 200,000 out of those million ppl stop buying gas, I may lower prices 20 cents and go on with life.

    Remember you effect the price of gas in a very indirect, but ultimately direct way.

    Okay so enough of that crap here is how i see it.

    EVENTUALLY it will even out.
    im 17…
    still got 80 years, if im going by the 100 scale..
    I need gas.
    So i learned to accept the fact that gas costs money.
    Im not in a position to go buy a prius or however you spell it…

    Just pay the price.. no sense complaining about it.. theres nothing you can really do.

    Some other things you can do to make that gas seem a littl cheaper?

    it costs me 83 and a half dollars to buy a tank of gas.

    If I skip morning coffe at caribou, every other day, I save 27 dollars a week.

    I if i skip buying food every other day on break at work, I save 25 dollars a week.

    thats what 52 dollars?

    think of the little things in life you can go without.. I work in a grocery store, and a car repair show.. i see ppl come in with a bag of chips, and a coke, candy, crap we dont need. sometimes you need to put your priorities straight. to me gas is far more worth it than a snickers bar, or a latte in the morning.

    Just wait it out, things will get better…

    if not then we are screwed lol..

  24. A couple of years ago the BBC program Top Gear put tested various economy driving tips using an Audi A8 (diesel V8) using the cars standard fuel consumption computer.

    Driving slower did save fuel.
    Accelerating slowly did save fuel, however this may have been due to the programming of the auto tranny. According to Audi it is most fuel efficient to change gears at the torque peak as this allows the engine to operate in the rev band where the engine load has the most favourable characteristics for fuel efficiency. Don’t know if this is true for 4-cyclinders but certainly seems to work with my V6 Nissan 300ZX.
    The AC and rear window demister both use a lot of fuel.
    The most important thing was to read the traffic to avoid having to brake.

  25. @ Mike

    “I think the

  26. DRIVNMASTR says:

    LOOK ANYONE THAT CONSIDERS MYTHBUSTERS TO BE THE END ALL OF SCIENTIFIC FACT IS A MOROON IM TALKING TO YOU JESSE WITH A POST LIKE THIS
    yeah… the A/C one is totally wrong. I’ve done tests with my vehicle and the difference is dramatic. The A/C gobbles up gas. Windows don’t. If you need more proof see the mythbusters episode where they test that exact theory.

    THE MYTHBUSTERS ARE NOTHING BUT SPECIAL EFFECTS ARTIST THATS IT THEY DONT HAVE ANY DEGREE FROM MIT THEY DONT WORK FOR NASA THEY MADE MOVIES THATS IT. PLEASE SEPERATE ENTERTAINMENT FROM FACT.

    LOOK JUST BE SMART WHEN YOU DRIVE THESE TIPS DO NOTHING USE YOUR HEAD

    AND DRIVING A HUMMER H2 THAT GETS 6 MPG AINT SMART.

    WE ARE GOING TO BE PAYING 5-6 DOLLARS A GALLON IN THE NEXT 3 YEARS SO ENJOY IT WHILE GAS IS “CHEAP”

  27. The best speed to drive consistently at depends on the car’s gearing and it’s aerodynamics, as well as your driving habits. I drive a Scion xB which is a motorized brick as far as drag is concerned. Once I hit 5th gear wind resistance is my biggest enemy- the faster I drive the more energy needed to counter that resistance.

    Putting the manual trans in neutral and coasting when possible, never going over 60 on the highway, and keeping the tires inflated properly. I did just those things, and my mileage over a month went from 31mpg to 36.

    There’s a guy who’s blogging his new Beetle TDI and getting in the 50-60mpg range while still going 65mph on the highway with a few changes to the car. Every car varies, find what works for you and when it’s time to get a new car pick one that’s not a gas hog.

  28. Re: The below quote.. What a load of bollocks. There’s no way any manafacturer would purposely design peak efficiency at a level beyond the legal speed limits (SUV’s and that 85 mph “peak”) Whoever wrote that forgot rule #1 of fuel conservation: Don’t drink the stuff!

    ” Most cars reach peak efficiency at around 60 mph, while trucks and SUVs reach theirs around 85 mph. It’s still wise to experiment with your vehicle to find your peak as opposed to guessing or living in ignorance”

  29. my jet burns 3300 gallons of gas an hour. I could drive a semi to work and not make a difference on my carbon footprint. Sure makes a difference in my wallet though. Ride a motorcycle, just watch out for drivers in their cages on their cell phones. Especially if they are 16 year old girls. That’ll ruin your savings any day.

  30. Why do cars get less mileage at incredibly low speeds than they do at medium speeds? Howstuffworks.com has the answer somewhere (I forgot where), but here’s what I remember:

    When the car is stationary, with the engine idling, a car experiences its worst possible fuel economy – it’s not moving, but it’s wasting fuel. Thus you’re getting zero miles per gallon in this state. The fuel burnt when idling goes into: keeping the engine going (specifically, supplying energy for the compression strokes), charging the car battery, powering electrical devices (fuel pump, engine computer, radio, lights, AC fans), as well as the A.C. compressor, power steering hydraulic pump and power brake vacuum pump (which I will henceforth refer to as “accessories”).

    Now, let’s say you shift into first gear without using the accelerator and get the car moving slowly, while still at idle speed, through use of the clutch (or by letting an automatic car “creep” on its own). You are now burning the same quantity of fuel as you were before. Some of the fuel is now used to overcome rolling resistance in the tires, some to overcome any slight incline, and most of the power is going to all the accessories and things I already mentioned. Therefore your fuel economy is still very low in this state. (Note that at this speed, air resistance is negligible).

    As the car’s speed speed increases, the “overhead” (i.e. power wasted in keeping the accessories powered) remains constant, whilst the energy required to overcome rolling resistance and air resistance increases. This means that at higher speeds, a greater proportion of the car’s energy is being used to do useful work. For a small increase in fuel consumption, the car gets a relatively large increase in speed (at low to medium speeds). Eventually, the speed increases so much that air resistance becomes the predominant force holding the car back, and this is where the efficiency starts to fall again as a large increase in power output will only give a small increase in speed (and hence distance).

    From this, I hope you can see why both excessively slow and excessively high speeds are bad for fuel economy. I’ve heard that fuel economy peaks at around 60mph.

    I think the best way to get good fuel economy is to have a small light car with a small engine – not only will the car be lighter (i.e. will require less potential energy to go up a hill and hence will use less chemical energy), but you will also have less reciprocating and rotating mass (lighter pistons, crankshaft, gearbox etc.). Small engines consume less fuel in general (especially when idling in traffic) than big engines, even at full throttle. And b.t.w. a toyota aygo (not sure if you have this in America) with a 1 litre petrol engine of 60bhp gets 65 mpg and has a top speed of over 95mph. Think about it, do you really need a car that can do 130 or 150mph, considering how much extra fuel a big engine will use?

    P.S. to JWC (#78): He meant things being relative to one another (i.e. “the honda is a small car RELATIVE to the big pickup truck”) not THE official theory of relativity by Albert Einstein :)

  31. LMF(84)–

    Your statement about a small light car with a small engine is true, but such a creature would be short lived outside an urban environment in the U.S. Downtown New York? Probably OK. Downtown LA? OK too, as long as you stay off the 101. Anytown, Midamerica? Likely a bad choice.

    Where I live, there are lots of heavy (40 ton) vehicles traveling at interstate speeds (75 MPH). Simply put, it would be unsafe to attempt to drive among those vehicles if the contrivance of your choosing was incapable of accelerating and maneuvering among them. Entering a highway and expecting those heavy vehicles to avoid you because you are too slow is an accident waiting to happen. Until highway speeds are reduced by government order (or we license and control vehicles according to capacity like Germany), this will be a reality.

    When I buy a car, this is the primary reason I purchase an upgraded engine, not because my ego needs inflation. Excess capacity for acceleration can actually be a safety factor.

  32. m4yh3m,

    Regarding RPM, that’s a common misconception, but it’s almost complete bullshit. Under ideal conditions, an engine at 3000RPM will use the SAME amount of fuel as an engine at 2000RPM. The main reason higher RPM uses more fuel is due to increased frictional loss (since engines do not operate under ideal conditions). You may be thinking that an engine at 4000rpm will use twice as much fuel as one at 2000rpm. Not true. The engine at 4000RPM will need less fuel per stroke than the 2000RPM engine.
    Higher RPM DOES use more fuel, but the effect is not dramatic, especially during high speed highway driving.

    What is dramatic is the increasing aerodynamic drag on the vehicle. Think about it. At 60 or 80mph, what is the primary force that the engine has to overcome? Air resistance. The power required to overcome air resistance is a cubic function with respect to velocity. What this means is a car that needs 10 horsepower to cruise at 50mph will need 80 horsepower to cruise at 100mph. Basically a doubling in vehicle speed requires EIGHT times more power.
    So don’t look at your tach and think “Oh, I’m only at 2000rpm, I’m doing great!” Look at your speed. Above about 30mph, air resistance becomes the PRIMARY use of the engine’s power. Engine RPM has negligible effect. An engine will always burn the amount of fuel that it needs for a given POWER OUTPUT, not a given engine speed.

    Source: mechanical engineer

  33. Tips to Save Gas
    Here are simple tips to save gas. These tips will allow you to spend lesser amounts on gas. Ultimately, these tips can also save the environment as well.

    Save gas by braking the correct way:

    You can easily save at least 10% to 25% gas by braking the correct way. Especially when there is a traffic jam, try to press on the brakes as little as possible. This works because the vehicle consumes the most gas while accelerating than already moving. So by using this simple tip, you can save a considerable amount of gas.

    Turning your air condition off:

    If possible, try to use your air conditioning as little as possible. Doing so will reduce gas consumption. You can also try to open your windows to increase the airflow within the vehicle.

    Reducing the weight in your car:

    By reducing the weight in your car, the amount of gas it takes to move the vehicle can be lowered. This is a simple tip to save on gas.

    Purchasing a more fuel efficient car:

    This is obvious. Purchasing a more fuel efficient car will reduce the amount of gas needed to travel a certain distance. Not exactly a tip to save on gas, but it works. :)

    Car Pooling:

    Another obvious one. Carpooling reduces the amount of vehicles on the road, which translates into lesser use of gas and the increase in environment friendliness.

    Source:
    http://www.tipstosavegas.com/

  34. Hey guys sorry to tell you all this, you can go out and buy a so called “great economic car” thats “great on gas” but you know what it all depends on how you drive. Me and my friend drove his car which is an old 1980′s boat with a 3.4L V8 and for 100kms we lost 1/16 of the gas tank because we never had to pass anyone or accelerate, of course when we stopped and he had to accel each time it burned a bunch of gas. Why? Because acceleration burns a shitload of gas not coasting. Oh btw the A/C thing, it does burn a tiny bit of gas, but not a lot i don’t know where you people get this stupid idea that having A/C on consumes most of your gas. IT DOESNT, the use of A/C consuming your gas can be (if even barely) be noticed on really long trips.

  35. Oh by the way we were going 160+ for a whole hour.

  36. THE MAIN THING THAT I THINK WASTES GAS IS TURNING YO’ CAR ON & OFF & BACK ON AGAIN. THAT SWALLOWS GAS!!!

  37. the a’c is worse than the open windows

  38. country mouse says:

    not so fast Sparky. The general consensus on AC versus open windows is that it depends. You need to measure it for yourself and use your results for your own vehicle and nobody else’s.

    In my 120,000 mile old Volkswagen golf I get about 3 miles per gallon more with air-conditioning than I do with the windows open. In my wife’s Chevy S10 pickup (disposed of long ago), it didn’t make a difference. It was a gas pig either way.

    The other advantage of air-conditioning is that the car becomes quiet enough you can hear if emergency vehicles are coming and you remain cool enough that you can respond to almost any traffic situation calmly and effectively. In other words, air conditioning helps you be a better driver.

  39. Anonymous says:

    this is way to long

  40. fantasti website

  41. Depends on the way you drive and what kind of car you drive, and some other factors that the AC is better. I dont use nothing as much as possable, even your vents DRAIN your battery, that make the alternator that charges the battery draw significantly on the engine, so much that if you were to turn you idle air control valve off run the engine and then turn on the headlights and vents the car would stall!! Anydraw on your engine is not good, but using the air in 120degree arizona weather is a good idea. :) And fuk mythbuthers haha.

  42. As each car is different – if your car has a “instantaneous fuel use” display mode, use that and pay attention to when it is sucking it down.

    I drive an auto and have noticed for example that doing 50km/h through local traffic zones uses more fuel than doing 55 through the same areas due to the gear it selects.

    In my car, accelerating to 60km/h at a decent rate then sitting at that speed uses less fuel than dragging out the acceleration over a longer time.

    Each car is different… you need to try a few things

  43. I know you’re right about 1 and 2 but what makes you an expert? 3 and 4 seem to be something that you just made up. Air bubble? Where is the fact on this? number 4, Accelerating extremely slow wouldn’t “bog” down your engine. A lower gear was made for going slower, it all depends on the rpms you put down.

  44. ill have to try this one tomorow ill try not to go to slow to save gas cause might take more gas to move the moped. i dont know what they mean buy 2 turns of the exelerator to smoothly travel thanks for all your help

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